5 April 2016

Hedi Slimane's Best at Saint Laurent

Anyone that knows me well can tell you that my favourite fashion house is Saint Laurent. I used to choose Yves when asked to look at a designer in secondary school and asked for the YSL coffee table book Style for Christmas 2011. My favourite perfume is the lesser known Saharienne and I have lusted over their bags, purses and shoes for what seems like forever. (See here, here, here, here & here for wish list proof!)

Hedi Slimane was another reason. It was his catwalk collections that I looked forward to every season and they really resonated with me. Thinking about it now, it was because his looks were a mixture of my teenage style (ripped fishnets, black leather) Parisian chic and rock n roll glamour that I aspired to. When I heard the news on April 1st, I initially thought it was an April Fools, but a heartbreaking email update from BoF confirmed the worst.

To appreciate Slimane's genius work at Saint Laurent, I've rounded up his best looks from his stint as creative director at the house, starting with Spring 2013.

Spring 2013
hedi slimane ysl, runway catwalk fashion week
Slimane's first collection had a boho, Americana vibe courtesy of the floor length dresses, wide brimmed hats and belts. Elements such as pussy bows and tuxedo jackets brought the collection back to its Parisian roots.

Fall 2013
hedi slimane ysl catwalk runway fashion week rtw
This collection is right up my street, I cannot begin to express how much I love it! Lingerie influences, leather skirts and faux fur. Coincidentally this was around the same time that my sister and I used to throw vintage plaid shirts over everything.

Spring 2014
hedi slimane, ysl, runway, catwalk, fashion week, rtw, designer
This collection feels very powerful, with its plunging Vs and shoulder pads. There were a lot of sheer blouses in this show, and all the models went braless. Exposing one's nipples is empowering in it's own way, and I think Slimane understood this.

Fall 2014
hedi slimane, ysl, runway, catwalk, fashion week, designer, rtw
Doesn't the first look scream Gossip Girl? I love the school girl look. This collection had a 60s vibe with the Mary Jane shoes, mini skirts and feline make up. I particularly like the velvet dresses of this show. They remind me of a gold velvet "party dress" I wore when I was in primary school and how special it felt.

Spring 2015
hedi slimane, ysl, catwalk, runway, fashion week, designer, rtw
This collection was all about hot pants, platform heels and statement belts. Like Spring 2014, Slimane continues with plunging necklines and risqué hemlines. And despite my dislike for stripes and allergy to colour, I am weirdly digging the sequinned cami of the last look.

Fall 2015
hedi slimane, ysl, runway, catwalk, fashion week, designer, rtw
I actually did a review on this collection when it debuted, so click here for what I thought then, plus a focus on accessories and beauty.

Spring 2016
hedi slimane, ysl, runway, catwalk, designer, rtw, fashion week
As soon as I saw this collection, I immediately needed a tiara in my life. Although mine is more likely to be Claire's Accessories than the £1000 pieces on the models' heads. Many of these looks are festival glam, a sparkly slip shrouded by a leather jacket for example,  and many models wore wellies. This idea of toned down glamour continues into evening looks - a floor length dress is covered by an oversized jumper and an ankle grazing sheer number is paired with a Kate Moss sleeveless leather jacket. Hedi Slimane's effortlessly cool princesses is one of my favourite shows ever.

Pre-Fall 2016
hedi slimane, ysl, catwalk, runway, fashion week, designer, rtw
Slimane staged this show in his beloved LA and elements of the city can be seen in the clothes - statement belts, leopard print and the glamour of fur and sparkle. Menswear was also previewed in the show, I particularly liked this all black ensemble.

Fall 2016
hedi slimane, ysl, catwalk, runway, fashion week, designer, rtw
Hedi Slimane's last show was a classy affair in Paris, with models descending down the staircase in evening looks. Emphasis was put on the shoulders, with pads and ruffles making a statement. I particularly the beautiful shape of the snakeskin top. His signature plunging necklines, mini skirts, wide belts and sheer blouses came out for their finale.

It has recently been announced that Anthony Vaccarello will replace Slimane as creative director, and he certainly has an intimidating act to follow.

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All images sourced from Vogue Runway
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