I loved this collection from Dries Van Noten, which is surprising considering the amount of colour and print showcased. It was the sequins, sheer chiffon and bustiers that really made this show stand out to me.
Van Noten described the 62-piece collection as "flamboyant, kinky, infatuated, fearless" naming Madonna (that Jean Gaultier bra, perhaps?) and art patron Peggy Guggenheim as points of inspiration. The tattoo body stockings were an interesting part of the collection, bringing an element of rebellion to the retro-inspired suits and midi dresses. Despite the many points of reference, I think the overriding theme of the collection is the decadent party girl of the 80s, mixing up prints, colours, textures and the taboo.
This is the first look of the collection, which I was drawn to by the gold sequin bustier, part of a flowing white dress. The long line blazer makes the look more than just a pretty dress. The gold embroidery on a dark blue background harks to an oriental style, but the check print keeps it in the western world. And check out those shoes - in a 90s mule style, with an 80s platform.
The tattoo body stocking of this look ends in a high turtleneck, with a fuchsia bralet with contrasting straps worn on top. The gold motif of the previous look is displayed on a blue silk skirt. Despite the decadence of the fabric, the shape is quite slouchy - the waistband sitting low on the hips - and almost hangs off the model.
Another fuchsia bralet, this time beneath a sheer chemise (my favourite way to style a good looking piece of lingerie). Again, the shirt has an oriental-inspired print (I should know, I've worn plenty of yukata in my life) worn with a slim midi skirt. The sandals are also interesting, bringing a third print into the look.
Give me a slip dress and I'm happy. This one is printed, overlaid with nude sheer chiffon and features canary-yellow ruffles at the base (weirdly reminding me of the Marques'Almeida collection). The blue necklace looks striking against her pale skin at the base of her throat.
There is so much I love about this look. First off, I love the bejewelled choker because I'm a 90s girl at heart and the pink adds femininity to the masculine blazer. The nude tulle peeks out beneath the lapels and fans out like a skirt, giving an ethereal element to the look. The model shows off a denim mini skirt adding a casual/americana vibe into the mix.
My final favourite look features this long line sheer chemise, with white ruffles. A white slip dress is worn beneath, with an asymmetric hem. And the fuchsia of the previous bralet is translated in shoe form through these platforms. I think this look is the most wearable - I'd happily wear this to an event!
I also enjoyed the beauty for the show. Blue glitter was used as eyeliner, to add to the decadent feel, whilst the skin and lips were left fresh and natural. The hair was worn half up/half down in a 40s inspired style.
This collection has really opened my eyes to the designer, I will be looking forward to his further collections. It has also inspired me to raid my boyfriend's wardrobe for a blazer to wear over a slip.